The Ride
The technique of riding an unbroken wave by travelling along its length as well as running shore wards is fundamental to surfing in any craft. It is called a diagonal run.
Diagonal Run
Get the kayak surfing and then turn away from the break and tilt the craft with your hips into the wave to allow the edge (or rail), to grip the water. Twist the upper body towards the beach and apply a low-brace rudder on the down-wave (beach) side, prising the stern into the wave to keep the nose down and pointing along the wave. With any luck you will be positioned on the wave in the power pocket with the broken wall of water (the shoulder) chasing behind you.
Once performing a diagonal run, you can alter the angle of the kayak to face down wave by leaning down the wave and asserting pressure on the low-brace rudder. To alter the angle of the kayak to face up wave lean the kayak up wave and release pressure from the low-brace rudder.
This technique forms the basics for all surfing manoeuvres. To achieve the more complex manoeuvres the low brace rudder may be applied on the up wave side and the kayak may need to be leaned to some quite impossible angles.
Trimming
As mentioned above the diagonal run is the basic surfing position from which all manoeuvres can be performed. From this position the surfer planing along unbroken sections of a wave can trim the kayak to maintain or increase speed, which is essential in all manoeuvres. This results in the diagonal run, not being quite a dead straight one.
Bottom Turn
Upon reaching the base of a wave the bottom turn produces the direction change and acceleration necessary to climb to the wave's crest. This manoeuvre will be performed immediately after a straight take-off, enabling the surfer to climb back up the wave into a position to perform a diagonal run. It can also be used to negotiate a fast or breaking section, allowing the surfer to surf down and around the white water and regain the shoulder beyond.
Top Turn
The top turn is used to change direction after climbing to the uppermost section of a wave. When at the top of the wave the surfer is in danger of stalling and sliding off the back of the wave. To avoid this the surfer needs to lean forward to ensure that the kayak completes the manoeuvre. The top turn can also be used as a stall technique for regaining the power pocket.
Climbing and Dropping
Climbing and dropping is the sequence of combining top and bottom turns. With each sequence the surfer increases speed to facilitate further manoeuvres.
The Cut Back
The cut back allows the surfer to change the direction of the diagonal run through 180 degrees. This is done by turning the kayak down the wave and continuing the turn until the kayak is facing the direction from where it came.
The cut back is usually performed upon reaching a slower section of a wave whereby the surfer changes his direction 180 degrees back towards the pursuing white water thereby regaining the pocket.
Roundhouse Cut Back
In the description above the cut back was performed by the surfer travelling away from the shoulder. It can also be performed when planing towards the shoulder, so as to return to the position of the diagonal run.
When two cut back turns are performed in succession, the first towards the shoulder and the second away from the shoulder, this manoeuvre is known as a roundhouse cut back.
Tail Slash
This modification of the top turn is performed as the surfer travels steeply up the face of the wave, where upon the surfer performs a flamboyant turn through almost 180° where the tail of the kayak will slash across the top of the wave.
Lip Turn
This top turn is performed right on t
he lip (crest) of the wave, using the power of wave to turn the kayak.
Bouncer
When running towards the shoulder, following a cut back or faded take off, the surfer can continue the run right into the broken section of the wave, using the force of the white water to turn the kayak and bounce back into the power pocket.
Introduction - Wipe Out - Paddle Out - Take Off - The Ride - End Move