The Paddle Out
Paddling out through the surf can be quite intimidating for the beginner. Many get out beyond the break line and are then reluctant to paddle back in again! With a little patience and skill the art of getting out will come very quickly. The most important thing to avoid is being hit in the upper body by the full force of a broken wave.
Paddle into oncoming waves at a slight angle rather than at right angles. As the wave approaches the bow lean back and down wave slightly, keeping the paddle high to avoid being hit in the face by the shaft and pull the craft through the wave. As you approach the break line pace yourself so that you can either hold back and let the wave break or put on a quick sprint to get over the top of it. Once you get beyond the break paddle a little further out to get your breath back and to avoid being caught by any large sets which might come through.
The Take Off
Swells race towards the coast at incredible speeds, slowing down and increasing in size as they approach shallow water. Finally, when a swell passes over the ocean floor at a depth approximately 1.5 times its own height it will begin to break, expending much of its potential energy in the process. It is just before this point that the surfer, using self propulsion, can acquire the wave, or take-off. The take-off is therefore the entry point to a wave.
Straight Take Off
The easiest of the take-offs to perform. The paddler aligns them self at right angles to the approaching wave. As the wave comes up behind them they sprint forward to gain sufficient momentum to slide down the face of the wave. The steeper the wave at the moment of take of the easier the take-off is to perform.
Once on the wave the surfer now starts to perform the manoeuvres that will constitute the ride.
If the paddler continues to run at right angles to the wave, the paddler will get a short ride as the wave will now break, and force the paddler to perform an end manoeuvre.
Angled Take-Off
Similar to the straight take-off, only this time the surfer is not at right angles to the approaching wave, but is instead angled to run down the face of the wave away from the shoulder.
This take off allows the surfer to move straight into a diagonal run.
Faded Take-Off
The last variation of the straight take-off is the faded take-off. This time the surfer angles the take-off, so as to move into the critical part of the wave. Enabling the surfer to correct poor initial positioning on the wave for the take off and to gain the power pocket. Once into the power pocket the surfer will need to perform a manoeuvre to turn away from the approaching shoulder.
Paddle Out Take-Off
The paddle out take-off allows the surfer to catch a wave at the most critical moment possible while paddling towards the break. This manoeuvre requires that the surfer is able to propel their craft at a reasonable speed whilst paddling out and as such is only performed by wave skis and kayaks.
Introduction - Wipe Out - Paddle Out - Take Off - The Ride - End Move