Canoe Wales - Canw Cymru

CAUTION: There is likely to be machinery and other construction equipment in the river around Bryn Bras falls for most of the 07/08 winter. For a short period the construction team will have a tension diagonal safety line across the river at water level.

Upper Conwy: Chris Steele, Tan y Ffordd Ucha, Glan Conway, Colwyn Bay LL28 5PG. Tel. 01492 580616

Conwy Estuary: Jackie Wynne-Freer - contact via WCA, Canolfan Tryweryn, Frongoch, Bala LL2 3 7NU 01678 521199

Map:	115 Snowdon and Surrounding Area 116 Denbigh and Colwyn Bay
Grade:	sections of I to II; II; III to IV; IV and V
Length:	various sections totalling 44 km
Access:	A5 & A470T
Notes:	few portages
Quality:	Sections of and and

By any standards the Conwy is a truly majestic river. Rising as it does from Llyn Conwy at a height of some 1488 feet, it winds and roars and glides its way downstream until it enters the sea in Conwy. Here, still standing in extremely good nick, is one of the most powerful of the English castles built in Wales.

By canoe the Conwy is navigable from some 23+ miles upstream but, long prior to the visiting paddler, the river was used as a navigation system. Back in the reign of Elizabeth I, the Conwy was used to float oak timber down to the coast. So it comes as no surprise that much of the upper Conwy still supports fine native oaks along its banks.

The Conwy has the reputation for being canoeable after other rivers have run dry. To some extent this is true, fed as it is from the Migneint (‘the place of swamps’), one of the largest, wild, moorland places in Wales. The harder sections, being more gorged, are paddleable after the main sections drop - the ‘Glen’, for example, is often do-able a few days after rain. Though many paddlers happily bounce down the Conwy at all levels, the river should be clearly ‘up’ for its true mettle to be felt. There are various viewing points - Waterloo Bridge in Betws, and the riverside road bend a little way below Bryn Bras Falls, both places of which should have the shelves and rocks covered for good levels. The Glen itself is normally done in the first few days following high water as, in flood, it is one mean piece of water.

At the time of writing, there is a reasonable access situation on the Conwy, agreed by the WCA to which would seem prudent to adhere. This obviously changes from year to year and up-to-date information should be available from the WCA, or Conwy Falls Cafe in Betws. A great deal of hard work has gone into this agreement and I would urge paddlers to stick to it.

Put on the river in Ysbyty Ifan where access is clearly marked. After good rain it was possible and traditional (historically) to launch onto the river at Pennant bridge and footpath GR824469 (south of Ysbyty Ifan on the B4407). However, I should point out that the access agreement does not include this section of river and these notes are just for interest. Getting on above Ysbyty Ifan will put the access agreement in jeopardy so, please, don’t do it. The river is fairly easy until a class VI fall near Pandy Uchaf is reached. This has been run by a few people but is normally a portage. In any case the last time I was there a tree was blocking the line. A little way below is a steep weir before the falls at Ysbyty Ifan. This weir itself is straightforward unless in very high flood, where it suddenly hits a level at which it becomes much, much nastier! Beware. The class IV falls are excellent value and worth inspecting for the right line. It is as well to remember that an unfortunate fatality occurred on this stretch some years ago.

Ysbyty Ifan itself has an interesting history, taking its name from a hospice founded in the twelfth century by the Knights of St John to give lodging and shelter to those in need when crossing the Migneint (see earlier). Later on the hospice was granted the right of sanctuary and became a safe place to those wanted by the law - sanctuary for canoeists from persecution? The rapids down to the A5 bridge are fairly straightforward, apart from perhaps the attractively-named ‘Hargreaves’ Folly. Egress can be made river right of the A5 road bridge.

From the A5 layby at GR857512 access can be made along the little footpath through the trees and thus onto the river. This totally avoids playing Russian Roulette along the A5. Back in the days of my youth, this section was considered a true gem and a local challenge. It still is worth every little bit of its four star status.

With the addition of the Caletwr and Merddur, the river picks up new power as it carves its way through the Foelas Estate (the Merddur itself has some good rapids but is crossed by numerous fences and isn’t worth the bother). First runs can be intimidating to the newcomer as the river surges and boils its way around moss-covered boulders and through high vertical walls. First a footbridge, and then the road bridge, are passed as the river becomes more continuous through the Padog Farm narrows. Down under the A5 bridge, the river starts to wind itself up for a rush down Bryn Bras Falls (class III when low, or IV when up). 16 years on, I vividly remember my first run through the stopper at the bottom - great!

The river relaxes as it becomes visible to the A5 and, before long, reaches the get-out at Rhydlanfair bridge GR828524

A medium spate is probably the best level to run this rather serious section of the Conwy. The river soon picks up to class III and IV for the first kilometre or so in its run up to the first of two hard class V rapids. This is run down a series of drops on the left and through a stopper at the bottom. It is potentially serious if cocked-up. The right side has been blocked with trees in living history (portage left). The second fall, a few 100 metres below, is also pretty gnarly. It can be run left to right, or straight down the right - both lines ending over a large drop into a big stopper. The portage is quite tricky even with the wooden ladder put in for just that purpose. To avoid going through an SSSI, a big seal launch into the pool below is required. However, at time of last paddling a large tree blocked the river just below. Some thought is need to negotiate this!

Below this drop are some excellent and hard class IV rapids leading down to the get off above Penmachno bridge. The first of these has a large undercut rock in the middle which to my knowledge has been swum under at least once. This section is now notorious and has featured in various TV rescues and news programmes! Much to my amusement, on the left bank are now a series of markers counting down to the egress point GR812534. 100 metres before Penmachno Bridge. This is actually visible across the bend and though the trees to the keen eye. The problem was that certain parties missed the egress and found that paddling under Penmachno Bridge committed them to entering the "unrunnable" upper part of Conwy Falls. Looking from the bridge into the foaming chaos of water passing under and around huge rocks, one particularly large rock island is visible. From here various (including one well-known) paddlers have been hauled off under the watchful eyes of TV cameras! I call this section "unrunnable" but, in point of fact, I should give it a major class VI rating as it has been done in medium and high flows. However, the person I know who has paddled this rapid is an exceptional boater - don’t be deceived!

‘Opened up’ in the early eighties, this section is one of the best hard runs at its grade in the country. It is a British test-piece and, as such, is immensely popular. It has seen its fair share of epics plus at least one fatality. Guarding the entrance to the run are the Conwy Falls. One of the big five waterfall tourist attractions in Wales even they, in their entirety, have been paddled. The lower falls, topped up by the raging Machno, have been run both left and right in very low water. They are extremely dangerous and, with the advent of the new salmon steps, are ‘illegal’ to attempt. Just as well - I have personal experience of a near-drowning in which the canoeist only escaped because both his legs broke and he was washed free of the boat - enough said.

Access can be made down the footpath on the river right from below Penmachno bridge car park. A low to medium spate is the best condition for running the Glen, as many of the dangerous siphons are covered, but the waves and stoppers still manageable. There are two main gorges split by a usually easier section plus a class V+ to VI fall. Most of the drops need inspection. The river opens with a bang as a large fall taken right to middle is shot, with the paddler disappearing totally below. Immediately below is a small drop up against the left wall, with a vicious stopper. Next is a boulder-choked run right up against the left cliff. The water needs to be a medium level to do this and is not possible when low.

A little way below used to be one of the most pleasing and aesthetic drops on the river: a steep drop into a big stopper guarded by siphons above and below. Over the past five years or so this has fallen in fully, firstly creating a monster, before settling down to a somewhat easier fall to shoot. It may well be worth noting that, unfortunately, this drop has been the scene of a fatality plus a few near misses. A few, steep drops follow before a fantastic long rapid is run between steep and sculptured walls.

The gorge opens out with a small road visible high up on the left bank, where the water gets easier and, theoretically, less dangerous. One small vertical drop should be viewed with caution: once, in very high water, a paddler with an incredible 47 previous Glen descents swam in it for a long time - much of it underwater. Not much farther on is a major class V+ to VI fall, which has been paddled a number of times - usually at low-ish levels. It is possible to portage left or right and then re-enter the second gorge. Beware of the drop just below as pinning is a serious possibility.

The next-but-one drop, known as the pipeline, is probably the most aesthetic on the river and is technical at all levels. Best run left to right, an escape route to the right exists. A large ‘S’ type rapid follows before a short flat section leads in above the last drop. It is best to inspect this drop before paddling as it is, frighteningly, almost impossible to do so from the river (at certain levels it is possible to get onto a ledge on the left bank). Best run just left of centre, there are undercut boulders on both sides.

Here, at normal levels for doing the Glen, the rapids ease off to class III+. However, they should not be underestimated in big flows when they contain some enormous gobbling stoppers. On the way down, past the Lledr confluence, is a bouncy, class III run into Beaver Pool. Egress river left below the bridge (A4707) GR798547.

Access is a problem on this section of river. In big water, the rapids tumbling out of Beaver Pool and down to the Waterloo Bridge reach class II+. There are some superb surfing waves and stoppers but, at these conditions, it is a big river and can be a bit intimidating for absolute beginners as it thunders down left and right of washed-out islands. The rapids ease off to fast-flowing water and where the Llugwy joins it becomes very much a touring river down to the egress at Dolgarrog GR780668.

This section is excellent for touring parties with experienced leaders. It is suitable for both paddling down, and also up, on the tide. The ever-popular Conwy ascent is now a regular occurrence. I even did part of my SI here, but that was many years ago!

Which-ever way you are going to try this section of river, it is important to time your run with the tide. If you are doing the ascent it is best to utilise the flood tide rushing in by leaving Conwy within one hour, and certainly within two hours, of the low water tide. This gives a number of hours to utilise the flood before high tide - when it is best to return on the ebb. On big springs the tide can race in both directions at around six knots so an experienced leader is sensible. That being said, in good conditions it is a great touring run for experienced families.

From the main road a track can be walked along to the access at Dolgarrog bridge. The river meanders through areas of SSSI and is frequented by myriad wildlife. There is one area in which the ebb produces a small, class II, tidal rapids. This is just upstream of the Ferry Hotel and Tal y Cafn bridge. A few old stakes remain of the original bridge and these should be treated with caution.

Below here, a gentle paddle under the brooding shadow of Edward I’s Conwy stronghold brings the paddler to the egress at Conwy Quay, just south of the bridge GR783776. At least, here, the stamp out at low water includes some sand underfoot.